Cyano pour parties transparentes

Some of you may already know about this product, but hopefully this post might help a few people who do not know about it.

If you are like me, attaching a clear part to a model is not a fun thing to do. The only real choices is to use PVA (white "Elmers"-type glue) or take your chances with coating the part in Future and trying CA glue. Each option has its own drawback(s).

I hate using clear parts glue because it typically has a weak bond and the part can fall off down the road if not handled properly. I also don't like that the drying/handling time is so long. Adhesives like Tenax and superglue have ruined me....I just hate waiting for clear parts glue to cure (or at least become tacky enough to let loose of the part)....especially if the window or formation light is really small and awkward to hold in place.

The "pros" to clear parts glue is that it dries clear doesn't haze or fog the clear part. Who wants a foggy canopy or a window that you can't see through?

The other possibility is CA glue or cement. Sure, it will hold the part on, but it will fog it up so bad that you'll never be able to see all that detail you put inside the aircraft. Some people report that a good dip or two of the clear part in Future will protect it from fogging up (which is caused by the fumes of the chemicals in CA glue), but I've never been brave enough to try this.

So you are faced with a trade off: A weak bond for a sparklingly clear part with clear parts glue, or a super strong bond that ruins the translucent properties of the part if CA is used.

I was recently informed about a product that gives you the firm bond and quick handling time of CA glue, but with the crystal clear properties of PVA glue. It is an odorless CA glue manufactured by InstaCure called Super-Gold and Super-Gold+. The only difference between the two is the viscosity. The "+" variant is thicker.

I decided to go pick some up at one of my local hobby shops and do a little test.

I took the front and rear portions of a scrap canopy from an old Revell A-10A kit and glued a thin strip of styrene right down the middle. I used regular CA and this "odorless" CA. The proof is in the pictures. FYI: there is no Future on either of these parts. I simply cut them off the sprue.

Normal CA


Odorless CA


This CA really is odorless. It has absolutely no odor to it. It has a fast cure time, just like normal CA. Disclaimer: While I do think that the tensile and shear values for this odorless CA is less than normal CA, it is multitudes stronger than clear parts glue.

So you have the best of both worlds here, great working time, quick bond, stronger adhesion when cured, and best of all......no hazing.

The stuff is rather expensive. This 1/2 oz. bottle was $7 plus tax. However, I do feel it is worth the extra money (compared to regular CA glue) considering its benefits.

I have used it successfully on two different models since this test and it has never fogged a part yet.
I'm sure a glue like this can really help you guys who like to put canopy rails and mirrors inside a canopy to dress it up.

Please note: The HobbyTown USA sticker on the bottle is a simple clear sticker that the local store puts on everything. HobbyTown has nothing to do with the production or distribution of this glue. They simply keep it in stock as well as other glues from this company. Here is the company's official website: http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/oca.html I apologize if there was any confusion on this point.

JED

Zero77 a écrit:Je n'ai pas encore testé, mais je pense que je vais m'en commander. Parce que je trouve que les colles spéciales pour parties transparentes ne collent pas terrible (en gros c'est de la colle blanche), et un collage à la cyano est toujours hyper risqué. Reste la colle à maquette standard, par exemple l'extra fluide tamiya qui ne va pas trop mal, mais j'ai deja eu des soucis avec quand même, lorsque la colle s'infiltre à l'interieur de la verriere et vient se mettre sur une partie visible.

Bref, je pense que cette colle doit etre pas mal du tout.

Il semblerait qu'on la trouve par chez nous sous la marque easymodel, sur certains sites d'aeromodelisme.

Flying Frog a écrit:pourquoi payer cher alors que de la cyano spéciale céramique (ou porcelaine selon les marques) est exactement le même produit, sans l'étiquette "spécialement élaboré pour les pigeons de maquettistes donc prix doublé" ?